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Continuing north from Fort de France, we arrived at St. Pierre, the northernmost anchorage of Martinique. A coastal town at the foot of Mt. Pelee, this was a thriving area in 1902, dubbed the "Paris of the Caribbean." There were warning rumbles from the mountain and even a significant eruption which destroyed one of the richest plantations in the area. However, the governor had only been on the island for about a year and didn't want to evacuate its most important city. On Sunday as people from Fort de France were approaching St. Pierre to celebrate Ascension Day, heavy red smoke erupted and rolled down the mountain, killing all but two residents, a cobbler in his cellar and a prisoner in the bowels of the jail. The museum has pictures of the bustling harbor and town just prior to the eruption and also distorted artifacts which survived the boiling lava, mud and gases. St. Pierre is near the site where European settlers wiped out the last Carib Indians. Just before they were killed, the Caribs called upon the mountain to avenge their deaths. Some think the mountain was finally responding to the Caribs' curse. Ruins of some of the buildings are still standing. Huge blocks of stone can be seen scattered about while others have been used as an integral part of more recent construction. The theater and jail were excavated and are open to tourists.
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Open air market with produce and flowers on the waterfront
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After walking the streets of St. Pierre for several days, we returned to St. Anne. As we got to know Georges and Anna better, we decided it would be fun to travel inland with them. We rented a car and visited the interior and the windward side of Martinque. We toured Clement Plantation where George Bush (father) met with a French president for some summit or other. In addition to the historic plantation house and grounds, there was also a rum distillery. French rum is distilled white with high octane. There are also sweet flavored rums, but the traditional drink "Ti Punch," a shortened form of the proper phrase "Petit Punch," is made with a shot of 110 proof rum, lime juice, sugar, and a cube of ice. Powerful stuff.
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Clement Plantation rum distillery
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The Atlantic side of the island has few anchorages so cruisers do not generally go there. It was interesting to visit by car and look out upon the mighty Atlantic. We spent the night at a quaint seaside town with one forlorn sailboat at the pier. Our hotel was Hotel Manguier (Mango Hotel). Perched high on the side of a hill, we had a wonderful view of the beach.
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The next day we went to a botannical garden. Plants indigenous to these tropical islands are succulents, with barbs or stickers like cactus, often designed to catch water for themselves, birds and insects. The blossoms are waxy and last a week or two when cut. A picture is worth a thousand words, so enjoy.
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Small bird getting a drink
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Water collects in the center of the cactus
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